Las Vegas confusion
I parked my RV in the circus circus RV lot for $20 a night and set out on foot at dusk to go look at the Strip,
aiming for the Luxor, That giant pyramidal black building about 4 miles up north Las Vegas strip, Which has a powerful beam shooting into the night sky above. It’s visible from everywhere – a good landmark.
Or so I thought.
I believe it used to be a green krypton laser but perhaps it accidentally shot some planes down so now it’s just a powerful Arc-light of some sort
I took in & easily entered the Bellagio, the Venetian and all usual spots and was gradually unnerved & immediately disoriented to the extent that I could Neither picture which direction I was walking nor how to get out, even by backtracking.
I have a very good sense of direction so I felt quite thrown
Google maps was thrown too because it is not good in large pedestrian areas
I asked various staff for the exit and they seemed a bit confused too.
Knowing what fire marshals would have to say about this even in the state of Nevada, I followed green EXIT signs but the only effect of this was to take me into some other concrete skyway or laboratory of human confusion.
Sometimes I looking down on the street below that I was trying hard to reach again.
I suppose the idea was that if a fire broke out you didn’t have to continue gambling in that particular building but could continue throwing the money away elsewhere,
MGM Appears to own everything so perhaps it just doesn’t matter anyway
More or less at random at some point I found myself back on the street again, Totally turned around and the Alien beacon of the Luxor was in completely the wrong part of the sky. It was an unaccustomed act of faith to assume that that remained the correct direction to walk..
Yet the fun was not over.
Being on foot I had to cross a number of intersections that were railed off against foot traffic.
Very reasonably an overhead pedestrian bridge was provided in several places, Easy to locate and use. However, once exiting the skyway on the far side back we were inside among the slot machines..
(– no, that’s incorrect none of them take coins anymore – They are now all video poker and fruit machines…)
And a further disorienting experience.
How does one get back down to the street having crossed it?
I want to be outside!
The answer appears to be, “at random” Because following exit signs does not have the desired effect at all.
I was never so preoccupied that I did not have plenty of time to observe my fellow wanderers And environment..
It’s an enormously eclectic blend of humanity who also seemed happily disoriented, nobody going in any particular direction as you might expect ants to do,
but rather randomly jiggling around to and fro back-and-forth and intersecting each other, Seemingly purposeless, but with an over arching urge to be fleeced and entertained.
Here I am thinking and writing about it when the words of Hunter Thompson came to mind where he described “gonzo journalism”
as being the observer and the observed one & the same rather than an objective judgment.
I was not about to be fleeced, except mentally, and I was definitely in the belly of the the exact same beast As my fellow jitterbuggers.
I would not say there is fear and loathing here now because the Las Vegas I visited 40 years before, hitchhiking on my second trip to the United States, Was the one that Hunter Thompson knew- a scruffy dry dump prominently operated by the mafia for the sole purpose of shady gambling and indulging the prostitution unavailable elsewhere
Now it has a Disneyesque feel Where all neon has been replaced with stunningly impressive giant LED displays , Over-the-top stage shows, Solid national conferences all the time for everything you could imagine And the ever present brassy posters for prostitution where, however, no naughty bits may ever even be hinted at visually Let alone be shown uncovered.
(Later on, off the strip somewhat I found pole dancing supply merchants, lap dancing trainers and my favorite- A Taoist restaurant)
Las Vegas is plagued with innuendo about winning, sexuality, self assurance and celebrity.
A loudspeaker outside a casino proudly announces over & over that they would give you $20 back of the first $100 you lost there. This simple mind bending illogicality Is still ringing in my head.
Good old fashioned Carny hawking and shystering in doorways– now gone.
A discrete law-enforcement shoos away the homeless & the bankrupt, And city fathers utterly gentrify–Yet somehow never lose-the remaining tasteless job of separating anybody from his, her or its money.
Alcohol used to be the drug of choice here; now there are cannabis ads everywhere.
14 miles walk later I return exhausted to my RV and a shower while marveling how many extra miles were added by the circumambulations My fitness watch shows.
I lie thinking how I love loathing Las Vegas
I loathe that I love it, I fear-
I fondle it. For it express is my very own confusion and disorientation, What I could not reveal to myself.
This place is my nemesis, my brain hacking tool.
My brain track wrecker and habit smasher. Nothing here is as it seems.
It worked, and I thank it. And will stay away for another few years, digesting. my temple visit of being turned upside down over,
Next day I return to starry eyed wanderings in the remote desert just a few dozen miles away,
Going north again
With my now less challenged so called self,
whatever that self now is become,
Where I don’t have to think
quite so much any more.